Autumn cooking

Has autumn finally arrived in Sydney? At our place, the deciduous trees are dropping their leaves and the evenings and early morning are rather fresh.   I already hinted at it last week with my post on chestnuts.  Today is about autumn cooking, illustrated by a few dishes made at home in the last week or so.

On another matter, the subscription link is back running, check the side of the blog on a laptop or the bottom of the page on a mobile phone.

Let’s start by a breakfast treat…

I decided to give another do to the croissants dough recipe and make viennoiseries a bit different to croissants and pains au chocolat.  Because the batches are quite big, I freeze the pieces directly after shaping them on a tray (then pack away).  The night before I want them, I put them out of the freezer on a baking sheet and let them unfreeze and rise.  My problem was that I had very inconsistent risings and end results, but this time I think I worked it out!  The best is that the kids and I made that together, or rather they laid the custard, sultanas, rolled the dough in a log, wrapped it, I only did the cutting of the log.

viennoiserie
Pains aux raisins

And you know what? Today is not all about sweet dishes!

The below was a quick cook, 60 minutes to dinner, a bit like a Masterchef challenge.  I am quite ahppy with the end result!

I prepared a mushroom and fresh salmon tart (pastry included) served with a roasted pumpkin, beans and baby spinach salad.  And dessert with that? This is where a 7 y.o. child comes handy, this was a rapid apple cake, a recipe known in my family as a (hold on!) “Rombidi Rondidi Radada) but more generally in the wider northern part of France countryside as a 5,4,3,2,1 . For the salmon tart and salad, I had my 4 y.o. as kitchen hand (cutting ends of the beans), mixing, placing the mushrooms and salmon in the tart.

tarte au saumon frais
Fresh Salmon Tart
salade citrouille, haricot et epinards
Mixed green and roasted pumpkin salad

Another night, another dish, a soup!

Soupe aux marrons
Chestnut Soup

Doing a chestnut soup had been in my mind for a while, but I did not want to add cream and make it too heavy.  I quickly browsed recipes, again I did not feel like adding pumpkin or many vegetables.  I was after something where chestnut was the hero with a little something to ensure balance in flavours.

Now, chestnuts are nutritious, regardless what you do with them.  A bowl of that soup can make your dinner!  In south-eastern France and in Corsica, where they grow plentiful on rocky slopes,  they helped the populations go through hard times.

This chestnut soup recipe contains one small onion, one parsnip, one potato (probably not that necessary), two pears and plenty chestnuts! And the peeling of the chestnuts did not take so much time and was easy (place the incised chestnuts in cold water and brink to the boil!).

Quails season is also now, or at least the natural hunting season

When I was a child, my grandfather would install nets in trees and bushes to catch quails in autumn.  I have never been with him, I remember the stories and numerous return home empty handed! This week, I got a tray of quails from Vic Meats at the Sydney Fish Market (I went there to get some mussels), it was a little treat.  Since I was again cooking at the last minute, I did not spend too much time in books or websites looking at recipes.  I do not cook quails very often.  For those I mixed together some turmeric, paprika, a little sumac, some ground vanilla beans, made a paste by adding olive oil and rubbed the mix around the birds,  Inside I placed some fresh garden herbs and crushed garlic.  The rest is easy: brown the quails on both sides, then add one cut of dry white wine, salt, about one cup of red-currents, 2 large shallots sliced, salt and pepper.  I had to balance the acidity by adding one teaspoon of sugar.  Just before serving I rounded the sauce with a piece of butter.  I served them with grilled potatoes and parboiled broccoli.

Cailles aux groseilles
Quails in red-current sauce

Was it a good dish, yes definitely, but it is probably difficult to have a disaster with quails.  My younger one refused to eat a little bird, she asked to check the image online, no way she was going to eat it (she tried on her own will) !

A few autumn colour desserts…

A chocolate mousse is a crowd pleaser, always! It takes ten minutes to prepare, it needs to be done a few hours ahead of the meal (4 minimum, 6 or more is best). It contains only eggs and cooking chocolate: no sugar, no cream.  As my children would say :”got it?”….the recipe is HERE.

Mousse au chocolat degustation
Chocolate mousse

This other dessert is for all seasons really but the colours work so well with autumn!  This lemon and lime tart is a recipe from Julie Goodwin, an early contestant and winner of the Australian Masterchef.  The recipe is available on Julie’s website or on my blog HERE.  The edges of my crust got a bit hot (but not burnt). I would advise the blind cooking by picking holes with a fork instead of using blind baking stones may be the solution to avoid the issue.

tarte citron et citron vert
Lemon and Lime Tart

Any questions? Just ask!

Chestnuts

 

Chestnut season is here!  Most of you are likely to have memories of hot chestnuts booked on a cold days in the ashes of the fireplace.  It brings you back to your childhood, doesn’t it?

Parisians may argue, you can get a cone of roasted warm chestnuts in winter at street corners for a couple Euros.  I remember that from my student years, although the currency was not yet the Euro!

Today, most of us don’t have a fireplace, but you can still eat those chestnuts! Use a sharp knife to incise slightly through the skin if the chestnut (this is to prevent them having a little tantrum while cooking). Be careful not to cut yourself.  Place the chestnuts on a baking sheet, little tin and in a hot oven for about 10 minutes.  Insert a pointy knife in one of them to check for doneness. Peel the exterior and interior skins and enjoy!

chesnuts ready to cook

What else can you use chestnuts for? Here are a few ideas:

  • Add on the sides of a lamb roast or roasted chicken.  You will need to incise them as explained above, parboil them for a couple minutes and peel them.  The boiling will help removing the skins.  Make sure there is some juice in your roasting pan or they will become dry.
  • Make chestnut puree (water based or milk based).  As above incise, boil a couple minutes then remove the skins.  Then cook in either water or a mix of water and milk on low heat until crumbly and coked through.  Puree.  Add sugar if you wish (it depends what you want to do with the puree).  Keep in the fridge or freezer.   There are a number of recipes with chestnut puree, here is mine for a chestnut pudding. It is light and very delicate, beautiful!

 

 

 

Sydney Bakeries – Part 2

Sydney bakeries part 2 (of 2 for now) is ready for you! Last week, I posted on recipes tried from Bourke St Bakery, essentially from one of their book. This week, it is about another bakery I have discovered at the Orange Grove Market . I am speaking about Flour and Stone. What I like about this bakery is the home feeling, the products look beautiful and somehow rustic at the same time.  The other reason I like them, is that I have been making some of the same products at home, same same!

The recipes I am providing are mine.  I have not consulted the Flour and Stone’s recipes (yet), only googled quickly to check if some were online.  If you are after some of their recipes, there are a few on the web (google Flour and Stone or Nadine Ingram).

The recipe I am not giving, I would have to work it out to do so, is the one for this yummy lemon curd doughnut pictured above.  Really nice!

Tarte fine aux pommes (apple tarte fine)

This is a traditional French tarte, most often found in bakeries.  The tarte consists of puff pastry, apples, butter and sugar.  My full recipe is HERE.

apple tarte fine

 

 

 

The next recipe is a bit of a mouthful, hang on:

Raspberry and buttermilk flourless chocolate cake

The name says it all, it is a moist chocolate cake (addictive actually!), it uses buttermilk and almond meals and with the raspberries, it is simply irresistible!

You can make it as a large cake or in individual portions (which is great to!).  I made that cake up (and wrote the proportions down) about 8 years ago! I remember because it became the favourite after diner snack of a Swedish flatmate at the time, when she left, she specifically asked for the recipe (which I gave her). The recipe is HERE.

raspberry and chocolate flourless

 

 

 

Tempting Sydney bakeries….

Am I the only one being tempted by a good bakery? I don’t think so. Here are a few words and recipes from a few tempting Sydney bakeries.

Today’s post is going to be challenging, first because of computer issues (mine is at the computer doctor) and also because I am missing a few photos because i could not complete a recipe… Not a complete disaster but well….I ran out of eggs ! I was making the first stage of a brioche dough which I will use to make small brioches for school (and me at work :-)) lunchboxes, when I realised the egg-situation.  I was short of one egg! How could that be possible?   There were two boxes of eggs in the fridge, but, as i found out, almost empty ones.  No blame there on households habits!  I should have known better, it is towards the end of the week.

I manage for my brioche dough, being one egg short but using some egg-wash from yesterday as a complement, however I did not get to prepare my gluten free raspberry chocolate fondant!  You will understand the link in a moment.

Some bakeries I like in Sydney…

What do I like in a bakery?  First I would have to like the products, maybe not all, but enough to come back (except if really outpriced!).  Second, it is about the people and how the bakery comes through on the social plan.

Do you know that on weekends, you can make great bakeries discoveries when you wonder to some markets like the Paddington market, the Orange Grove market, the Carriage Works market, Pyrmont market (which I have never been to) and so on.

There are quite a number of good bakeries these days: Iggys, Bourke St bakery, Brickfield, Labancz, Grumpy baker, Zumbo, Bondi Organic Republic (thought I have not been there for ages, this is their new name), and plenty more.   Let’s chat about Bourke St Bakery, Flour and Stone, and Brickfield Bakery.

Bourke St Bakery

Bourke St Bakery  opened quite a while ago, initially in Surry Hills, they quickly became a reference bakery.  The products are very good as you will first experience by the size of the queue, then directly trying not to buy too much!  There are now a number of other shops, often easier to get to.  Their bread is really good!

Bourke St Bakery
Bourke St Bakery, Surry Hills

Apart from their amazing bread, Bourke St bakery does a lot of small cakes and viennoiseries.  They have a book on pretty much most of their products called “The ultimate baking companion”. I borrowed the book recently at our local library and have been trying a few recipes.  I still have Bourke St bakery booknot returned the book, I would like to try some of the shortcrust pastries! I found that for a novice to bread making (I am not one of them) the bread recipes are a bit too technical or skipping a few explanation which would be very useful.   For the other recipes, the recipes are great, beware of the quantities, they are designed for large volumes! Also beware that they use fresh yeast and not dry yeast.  I did get caught on one recipe, I was furious with myself!

Tip: Rule of thumb: Dry yeast x 3 (in grams) = fresh yeast in grams

I tried a bread from that book, it was nice, oups, no photos.  Otherwise, from that book:

The Dark Chocolate and Raspberry Muffins (CLICK CLICK FOR RECIPE). muffin They are truly delicious, I highly recommend you do them.  They please adults and children!

 

 

The chocolate prune brownie (CLICK CLICK !!!).  I love the use of the _MG_9117soaked prune in that brownie, but it is very strong in chocolate (too much) and way too sweet for me.  That said, I brought it to work, left it on the bench with a little note in the office shared kitchen and I could hear people coming back from the kitchen and their  comments of appreciation (most had not even read to the bottom of the very short note to check who baked them!).  Of course, there was no left overs.  I also recommend respecting the cooking time, if the top seem stable, the bottom may be too gooey, decrease the oven and keep baking! I had to put mine straight back in the oven (the photo was taken when i first got it out).

The croissants and pains au chocolat.  They were extra! Since we cannot homemade croissantseat 24 croissants and 24 pains au chocolat upfront, I froze the croissants and pains au chocolat just after making them (uncooked, before the last rising).  I take them out the evening before breakfast, egg-wash them and let them on the kitchen bench on the tray i will bake them in, i cover them with a large humidified plastic box and bake in the morning. In terms of aesthetics, it does the trick, but i find they do not taste as good as when not frozen. I am not placing the recipe here, if you want it, contact me.

The rest very soon! I need to do my raspberry chocolate cake before speaking of Flour and Stone and it is getting late for today.

 

 

 

 

My so called Portuguese custard tarts

These little custard tarts…

I have given this title “my so called Portuguese custard tarts” to today’s blog because I made my first batch of those tarts one afternoon a couple month ago with some left over puff pastry and left over crème patissiere which I was using for another dessert.  I did not want to throw away puff pastry trimmings, no no no!  I quickly got out of the drawer my muffin trays, chucked in the pieces of pastry roughly, I did not even bother soldering them together when sometimes 2 were necessary for one hol.  Then I grabbed the plastic container with left over crème patissiere from the fridge, filled the holes with that, egg washed/milk washed the edges and zoum! Direction, the oven.

Result: yum, yum yum!

Since, I made them again, they are truly so delicious!  I have perfected a bit my technique by adding rough raw sugar over the egg washed rim of the tartlets, it makes it a bit caramelized. My recipe is here. You can access it anytime from the main recipe menu of my blog.

Not just delicious, they are very easy and quick to make, once you have the crème patissiere ready and puff pastry ready.

Of course you could buy good quality puff pastry and good quality custard and make them in the moment, but sourcing these products in Australia will take you about as much time as doing it yourself! Do you know that supermarket puff pastry in Australia is not made out of butter but margarine? Well, check the back of the packet, basically, it is oil!   The alternative is to buy the “Careme” brand out of selected stores. In Europe, you probably do not have that problem, I remember reading in some cooking blogs that Picard has a good product (but frozen) and there is at least another brand which was well regarded.

Anyway, once you have tried, you will not go back to the oil based version.

When I learned they were so popular that some shops only make and sell those tartlets, I read a few recipes.  I had no idea they were a Portuguese specialty called “pasteis de nata”.  What I don’t do is roll the puff pastry in a roll, let it cool overnight and cut discs the next day which are then flattened and used as basis.  Check “Not quite Nigella“, she explains the concept very well.  This means that the layering of the of pastry is now perpendicular to the cut and the visual effect is nicer.

Making puff pastry

Making puff pastry is not that hard, best is to do a big batch and freeze in portions.  Look at the photo below, it is a cross section of a freshly made batch, you can see all of the folds!

IMG_2858

I find it fun.  Enclosing the butter is not hard and so far, for me, it has never burst out!  I am giving the recipe and plenty image on a separate page here. Well, if the link does not work immediately, be patient, I am being boosted out of this laptop (my work laptop) by a schedule software update, a countdown has started on my screen! My personal laptop suddenly stopped working yesterday, I can’t get it to start.  luckily we managed to access the hard drive and copy its content.

Coming up next week

A few bakery / cake shop discoveries in Sydney!! Plus some of their recipes tried for you (one is just cooling down on the kitchen bench).

Bourke St Bakery book
raspberry choc chip muffin, recipe from Bourke St Bakery book

Making your own pâté is pretty simple

Making your own chicken liver pate is simple!

If you like pâté, you may want to make your own.  In Australia, finding good pâté is quite a mission, and when you find it, the cost is quite high. Making your own pâté is actually quite simple.  All you need apart from the ingredients is a food processor and a fry pan!  You will find chicken livers at any butcher’s.  It is worth going to a good butcher, chicken livers are cheap and at a good butcher you can be sure they will be very fresh and big. I also add pork mince to my pate to soften the taste. The rest of the ingredients can be sourced from any supermarket and you probably already have them at home .

The recipe I am giving here is the one for the pâté I make again and again, it is the chicken liver pâté.  I make it for picnics, for parties and for no special reasons.  I make a batch and freeze it, it keep really well in the freezer for two months, when you need it, just allow to thaw in the fridge for a day before use.

Last time I made it, the butcher only had duck livers left, the taste was different, delicious too! (it is always a good indicator when there are no left overs).

Chicken liver pate
Chicken liver pate

Other pâtés I sometimes make

I make other types of pates too, not as often, they are definitely for larger crowds than my little family circle and I do not have endless storage space either.  Mum used to make “country terrines” by batches of 20 or more jars, cook them in a steriliser and keep them in the cellar. We would have them for lunch as entrees or for picnics during summer.

Pork Rillettes

making your own pâté
Pork rillettes, a Rick Stein recipe

Rillettes are a type of pate, typically french.  Most people (and even my butcher) don’t know about them down here.  Pok rillettes are pork belly and pork shoulder cooked in stock for a long time and  mixed with pork fat.  The recipe I used is from Rick Stein and was published in Delicious magazine. Rillettes are also often found made with duck.

Ham Hock Terrines

Another nice onein the pate family are ham hock terrines.  Ham hock terrines contains blocks of meat and are essentially ham hocks that have been cooked for a long time in a stock and put together as a terrine with a binder.  There are different ways to combine the meat, I tried the following two terrines, unfortunately I did not take any photos:

  • Ham hock terrine with jellified cooking stock.  This is another recipe from the Delicious magazine. You can find it online.
  • Ham hock terrine with mustard.  This is an early Masterchef recipe.

Personally I prefer the second one,  one friend loved the first one and she was so over the moon with it, I ended up giving the whole left overs to her, she loved it!

Free range eggs now formally defined in Australia

Free range eggs have now a formal definition in Australia.  The controversy was not new, and a definition has been a long time coming. A number of brands claim to be “free range”, alas, for the poor customer, there was (until now) no way to know the veracity of the claim, especially when you pay a premium for “free range eggs”, for some brands, that premium can mean over $10 a dozen.

One of the not so free range eggs brands apparentlyOne of the not so free range eggs brands apparently

Of course, the hens are free range,…not the eggs!

The new definition of what free range eggs imply is well received by some, not so well by others. I am not going to go into the controversy of what should be done when breeding hens and which brands are better than others, it is a personal issue on what is acceptable to you.  I find that this definition is a starting point, for those who think it is not good enough, well, marketing and imagination can be used wisely.

How are free range eggs defined elsewhere?

Lets get into the new  definition of free range eggs and look over the oceans at what is done elsewhere.

In Australia, free range eggs must come from hens that have meaningful and regular access to an outdoor range, with a stocking density of up to 10,000 birds per hectare.  One hectare being 100 m x 100 m, this means 1 square metre per hen outside.  Interestingly, it seems the density indoors is unknown.

And in Europe? Europe has a European standard which defines the different categories of eggs.  A free range eggs requires:

  • compulsory continuous daytime access to open air runs, AND
  • the outdoor area is solely to be used for the hens, with limitations on dual use of the land, AND
  • a maximum density of 2,500 birds per hectare, in other words 4 square metres per hen (at all time, i.e. indoor and outdoor).

You got it,  free range eggs in Europe are definitely more free range than in Australia!

And in the US? In the US, there is no regulatory standard for eggs.  “Free range” is used when the hens are free to roam inside and have access to an outdoor area.

Using eggs everyday

These recipes are quite timely, I did not prepare them on purpose for this post, they are life example from this week in my family.

Blue cheese and asparagus quiche

I like a quiche from time to time, it is light to digest and comes under many sorts.  When I was a child I only liked the cheese quiche, I did not like at all the quiche Lorraine!  Now, things are different.  Quiche can incorporate vegetables, either in the main mix, for example grated zucchinis (finely grated) or grated carrots either on top where it can also serve as decoration.  Make it look like a landscape!  Try asian mushrooms on top, I really like the enoki mushrooms. Use a combination of them, it will be great, guaranteed!   This week, Ambrine was helping me make the quiche, I had green asparagus and the remaining of a large basket of cherry tomatoes from my mother in law’s garden in the NSW Southern Highlands. The recipe is here.

Before Baking:

quiche in the making

Just BAKED

cheese and asparagus quiche

 

To make the quiche process a bit more rapid ahead of the meal, you can make the quiche in stages and prepare the pastry earlier the same day or the day before. You can even blind bake it earlier.

I serve the with a green salad.  And dessert was a fruit salad.

Dinner on the table
Dinner on the table

Eggs for breakfast, today, using a microwave coddler

This is another child friendly recipe.  This is all about the fun of  little vessel called “coddlers” used to cook eggs.  Coddlers are, traditionally, English porcelain egg cups with a metal lead.  Very British! Egg coddlers have been used in England since the 1800s. The original name for an egg coddler was pipkin. My sister sent me a microwave version of them for a recent Christmas, what a great find! The advantage of the microwave version is the cooking time, it cooks in 30 seconds whereas the ceramics ones are cooked in a bain marie, this takes for ages!

Microwave Coddler
Microwave Coddler

All you need to do is:

  1. Crack open the egg and gently put in the coddler
  2. Add salt, a teaspoon of cream, pepper if you want.  You can add many more things like cheese, spices, …
  3. Close the lid
  4. Place in the microwave for 30 seconds (this will depend on your microwave and requires a bit of trial and error)
  5. That is it! Bip! Ready!
Cooking an egg in a coddler
Cooking an egg in a coddler
Egg cooked in a coddler
Egg cooked in a coddler

 

 

 

 

Chocolate Truffles

Happy Easter!  Do you need a little something to bring to an Easter party? Try these chocolate truffles, they are easy to make and very delicious!

All you need is a good quality chocolate, cream, butter and cocoa.

This recipe makes about 50 truffles.  We made some this week, I brought one box at work and my daughter one box at school for an Show and Tell on “How you celebrate Easter” (just good timing!), they are delicious.

Ingredients:
  • 330 g of dark chocolate 70% cocoa
  • 25 cl (250 ml) of cream
  • 50 g of good quality soft butter (real butter please, no substitute here)
  • Cocoa for rolling (I like using dutch cocoa)
Method
  1. Cut the chocolate in small pieces with a large knife, place in a bowl.
  2. Boil the cream in a saucepan
  3. Pour the cream on top of the chocolate, cover for one minute then mix well until all the chocolate is melted.
  4. Add the butter, mix well.  Place in a shallow container and refrigerate for 2 hours minimum until firm.
  5. When ready to shape the truffles, put a tablespoon of cocoa in a soup plate or large bottom bowl.  With a teaspoon, scoop out the equivalent of a macadamia nut (for those who don’t know macadamia, it is between a walnut and an hazelnut). Roll in your hands to form a ball, then place in the cocoa and move the bowl around or roll the truffles with your finger tips.
  6. Transfer to a serving plate or storage container.

This recipe of truffles does not have eggs, it will keep in the fridge for over a week.  You may find they disappear before!

Tip: If you are using couverture chocolate, you need to be a bit more careful when doing the ganache to prevent splitting when adding the butter. you may want to melt 2/3 of the chocolate first, then the next 1/3 to the mix.  If the ganache splits, warm it up slowly mixing until it comes back together.

20160305_130844

 

Birthday Cakes

This week we had two birthdays at home, this means two evenings with birthday cakes and one common party with two birthday cakes: a child one and an adult one!

I have always until now managed not to prepare my own birthday cake, but this year I did one of them (the one for the party).  I think I prefer the surprise of a cake I have not made.

Week days birthday cakes

The birthday cakes during the week were chosen for their low to average level of technical skills and  ease to make (i.e. not too much time), they were also chosen so that we did not have two heavy desserts one after the other one or not two chocolate cake one after the other one.  In the end, none of those two cakes were chocolate based, this is quite something for us!

chestnut cakeThis little cake is a treasure of my creation, I made it for the first time a couple years ago. It is a chestnut pudding  It is normally cooked in a closed pudding bowl in a bain marie.  The texture is very moist. The cake very light which is a surprise when you do not know it.  It was served with a strawberry coulis, a creme anglaise also works well.  In this version (photo), the tin was not completely close and the texture became gradual with a more caky structure at the top (here the bottom), that is exposed when baking.   It remained delicious!

Sticky Date PuddingThe second birthday cake needed a short preparation time (work day night).  You may have recognised it, it is a classic sticky date pudding. It was served with whipped cream, a child’s favorite!

Party Birthday Cakes

One birthday cake was for a seven years old with the request of being a puppy dog cake, the other was an adult one with a requirement to be made relatively rapidly to allow for the other party preparation.

Birthday cakes for children are always a challenge.  First there is the shape, then the question on how, technically, decorate it, and finally the taste and timing. I have created a page for kids birthday cakes if you want to come back to those later without having to find the post.

IMG_4397

The cake itself consists of a chocolate marble cake.  I used two different size bowls (straight sides in the upper part) and four single serve cake rims for the paws. This is a plain cake topped with white and brown icing.  The collar was made of marzipan (homemade in little quantity).  During the birthday party, a two year old child could resist no longer and grabbed one of the paws!

The other cake, mine, I made based on a recipe from Pierre Hermé from his book Le Larousse du Chocolat.   I was offered that book a few years ago by my siblings who thought that I could do with it and make some of the wonders in it.  I have done a few. This one is the Mozart.  I choose this one because of the mix of apple, cinnamon and chocolate and the fact that I had previously done it.  It is not a difficult cake.  The cake consists of three thin and very friable circles of sweet cinnamon shortcrust pastry with layers of chocolate mousse and cooked apples.  This is a great cake!

Mozart (recette de Pierre Herme)
Mozart (recette de Pierre Herme)

 Need some help with your birthday cakes?

Our next birthday at home is not before the end of the year, quite in a while, so if you need some help, I am happy to help in person in Sydney or over the net otherwise!